#RIP joann

[cosplayresource]

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[sixseisliu]

walking through joann feels like robbing a corpse right now.

[didanagy]

WILLOW (1988)

dir. ron howard

RIP VAL KILMER 💔

[hawkeye221b]

I got the real Tumblr boop merch today yall

(they're meant for knitting needles but I saw them and instantly thought of the Boop o Meter

[sweetiepipebomb]

This is what private equity firms have taken from us

[roguealien-archive]

Original post date: September 17 2022

Original caption: truly don’t know what this is

[scopophilic1997]

scopOphilic_micromessaging_1299 - scopOphilic1997 presents a new micro-messaging series: small, subtle, and often unintentional messages we send and receive verbally and non-verbally. (2011)

[stormingfrost]

GUYSSS

look what my cousin made meeee! It’s Phil!

Yeti crochet pattern from PBandJcrochetdesigns

[procrastiel]

Here’s to you, Meyrick. I never got a chance to see you live, giving us your best Jack Nicholson (even better than the real thing!), but I am a huge fan of your son and he’s done some fantastic impressions of you. The stories I heard about you will always stay with me.

Michael is a fantastic, feral, funny, incredibly kind, charismatic, sexy, flamboyant, anxiety-ridden perfectionist, and an all-around 5+ star person. You did well. Rest in love, as Kate so eloquently put it. ❤️

[spheredotorb]

Marx Soul and Magolor Soul keychains using mizuhiki (traditional Japanese knot technique)

↓pics before the edit

↓process shots

this knot for marx soul is called 梅結び/plum knot

this one for magolor soul is called 菜の花結び/nanohana knot (nanohana is a type of flower. one variety is called rapeseed in english apparently. huh)

[bomberqueen17]

Yes. You can and should use cheap fabric for your test run! Because very often the fix needed to adjust the fit of the clothing will require recutting the pattern piece, meaning you can't just unpick the seams and re-sew it slightly tighter/looser.

When looking for test-run fabric, you do need to be aware that in some patterns, especially tight-fitting garments or a garment that requires the fabric to have a certain drape to look right, the fabric you use will not be similar enough to your final product to give you enough information. (Jeans are a problem, especially if you're planning to use a stretch denim. Those, you probably have to "muslin" in your actual final fabric, and there's no way around it.)

You don't need to make a muslin (also called a "toile" in UK English, after another cheap kind of fabric) of every single garment you ever make. But it's a great idea to make muslins of a new-to-you pattern, especially if it's by a company you haven't used before so you're not sure how their fit model compares to your body.

Basic pattern adjustments start with things like making the thing longer or shorter, and increase in complexity from there. If you've made your test version from your final fabric and realize you need the garment to be longer, you can't unpick the seams and sew it longer-- you need to lengthen a garment in the middle, to preserve the fit of the parts that are tailored to fit body parts. You have to cut the pattern apart and spread it. You can't do that to fabric without it showing in your final version. Nor can you cut a chunk out and resew it without there now being a seam in the middle of your torso.

And more complex adjustments include things like the adjustment I always need, the Full Bust Adjustment-- but if you're less curvy in the chest than the pattern is designed for, you'll need its opposite, the Small Bust Adjustment. This one, you have to cut apart the bodice part of the pattern and change its shape in both breadth and length. It results in a completely differently-shaped pattern piece, and is absolutely crucial to the fit of the shoulders, chest, waist, armholes, and length of the garment. (The first patterns I tried to use, I didn't realize it was an FBA I needed, and I wound up making dozens of adjustments to armholes, shoulders, necklines, length, waist, etc...)

(Here's a pretty good overview of what adjustments you can make and in what order.)

The perfect ideal outcome of making all these fit adjustments to dial in a basic pattern that fits you just so, if it turns out you're the kind of person who's really into sewing and so you want to make a lot of your own garments, is that you wind up with what's called a bodice block or a sloper-- which winds up being a master pattern you can use to compare all other patterns to, or to even just design your own patterns based on it, to make sure that anything else you make will fit you perfectly without a muslin. You make all these fit adjustments to a trial muslin, then cut it out along the seam lines, flatten it, and trace it on paper, and then add back seam allowance to cut out a thing that will fit you perfectly without trying every time afterward.

It maybe seems complicated and it kind of is but you can do it at little at a time as you go. And the thing is-- this is what sewing offers you that rtw does not. Not just that you can make it whatever color you want, but also, that you can make it shaped like you. It's incredible what a difference it can make to have clothes that really fit you.

Shopping For Fabric Online

I wrote my own post on this bit ago but a pattern company I follow posted a link to this guide they wrote about how to shop for fabric online. It has some different suggestions than what I wrote, so I thought I'd repost it here: The Sew Liberated Guide To Buying Fabric Online

This one focuses more on specifics, but has links to some good resources at the end too.

And, in the Instagram post where they linked to the guide, they also added the advice to buy muslin for practice sewing, and that reminded me, I forgot to say that in my guide!

Look for cotton muslin, which is available in a number of widths and usually in either bleached or unbleached finishes, and buy whatever is cheapest. If you are making a woven garment, it is great practice to test-run the pattern and dial in the perfect fit by making a practice version in this inexpensive fabric.

I tend to make wearable muslins and if I get them right enough, I will finish them nicely and tie-dye them afterward! But if I don't, then it doesn't sting so much as having made The Dream Garment In The Dream Fabric and having it not fit.

Some people get thrift store bedsheets to use for muslins but I find myself being too precious with those. Muslin is more consistent.

(I also look for cheap knit fabric on sale to make muslins of knit garments now and then, but it's less important because knits aren't so picky about the fitting!)

[gender-trash]

getting dressed in the morning like "i Have to be the gayest bitch at the fabric store"

[dyed-indigo]

i put this on a shirt

[clara-fucking-oswald]

If I had a nickel for every time a craft & fabric store headquartered in Northeast Ohio died, I’d have two nickels!

Which isn’t a lot, but weird that it happened twice.

[paniknanikin]

Just crocheted for the first time since October, and Oh fuck oh shit. Guys. I just realized I ran out of the brown I used for Scooby Doo, which is JOANN BIG TWIST.

I literally can’t get it any more it’s gone, I even checked the website it’s sold out. So if this blanket ever gets done it will have a MASSIVE color mismatch on its upper right corner. (I’ve historically crocheted around an area if I ran out of a color and just stitched it together after.)

So if you look in the upper right you can see the left side is a out 15 rows more than right.

I’ve actually progressed to about Velma’s glasses, but the yarn tangle is so bad, I don’t feel like taking a new pic.

Fml.

[journeyman-tier-fibercraft]

Happy Wednesday! My arthritis is finally calming down from my normal "the seasons changed and now you must be in pain" flare up so I've been able to put in work on this sleeve. ᕙ( •̀ ᗜ •́ )ᕗ

I've been limiting my amount of rows at one time to 10 ish, taking a couple hours to play a certain video game, then coming back to knit a couple more rows. It's working pretty well for me tbh, tho I keep accidentally ignoring my alarms (esp late at night when i'm gayming... but I'm fine with it this cardigan doesn't have a deadline lmao)

But I'm nearly 70% done with this sleeve!! When I'm finished, I'll cast on for the back which is going to take. Eighty seven years to knit. I've come down on 24 inches for my under the arm length which isn't the longest cardigan but should bring it down to just above my knee, assuming my math is correct for once. I've also decided to have the pocket opening 9 inches from the cast on (or 15 inches from the opening to the pocket to the underarm) which seems like it would be a good place for my hands?

Even if I didn't change the length of this cardigan, I would still be doing math right now to figure out the pocket because it's just. Too small. It's only supposed to be 5 inches deep which isn't enough for anything. (I also need to knit the pocket linings but I'm putting it off because Math.... the yarn I have for them isn't that much thinner than the main yarn but I probably should knit them with a tighter tension)